Ama Dablam Expendition

No one mountain in the world captures alpine climbers’ imaginations like 6856m Ama Dablam. It stands alone in the Solu Khumbu (Everest) valley, above famous Sherpa villages of Thyangboche and Pangboche. It is harder route to its summit; climbing Ama Dablam is reserved for dedicated alpinists, who have built skills and experience in much more than simply high altitude walking. The successful climber will also have solid multi-pitch climbing experience on rock and ice, and be comfortable climbing with a pack on and taking care of themselves in very high alpine camps.

This expedition is in many ways the culmination of Alpenglow Expeditions’ teaching system and mission. On Ama Dablam our expectation is that each climber takes real responsibility for the success of themselves and their teammates. Team-members will assist in setting camps, carrying loads

From Base Camp to Camp 1, we will climb up a long moderate moraine ridge, giving excellent views of our entire route. From Camp 1 up is always incredibly exposed and interesting.

From Camp 1 to 2 we encounter the route’s crux rock climbing sections. There are interesting technical traverses combined with countless easy fifth class moves and some short harder pitches of up to 5.8 climbing. On all of this climbing, you will be truly climbing each move, using fixed ropes only to protect yourself. This is not a route of jug-hauling!

It is challenging ice climbing camp 2 to 3 with sustained pitches of steep ice and mixed terrain. The final section into Camp 3 is the famed mushroom ridge, a mostly horizontal traverse across cornices tenuously stuck to a knife-edge ridge. From Camp 3 to the summit, the route lessons slightly in technical difficulty, climbing straight- forward 50-70 degree ice and snow around the hanging glacier (the Dablam) and up the summit face.

We combine our western guides’ experience with the local expertise of one of Nepal’s best logistics operators, and the services of our good team leader.


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